Paver Installation · East Valley · ROC# 311384

Pavers that hold the line in Arizona soil.

Driveways, patios, walkways, and pool decks installed across San Tan Valley, Queen Creek, Mesa, Gilbert, Chandler, Tempe, Scottsdale, and Ahwatukee. Owner-walked bids. Engineered base prep. Edward Steve Bencomo on every project.

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Paver Installation

Materials chosen for your yard, not the supplier's leftover pallet.

Most paver bids in the East Valley start with whatever the contractor's distributor is pushing that month. We start with the yard. Sun exposure, slope, grade, drainage, the way the property reads from the street — those decide whether concrete, travertine, or natural stone is the right call before a single pallet shows up.

Concrete pavers cover the broadest price range and the deepest selection of profiles — Belgard, Pavestone, Techo-Bloc, and similar lines. Travertine and natural stone are the cooler-underfoot, lighter-color picks that suit pool decks and shaded patios. We carry sealed and unsealed options for each, and walk every homeowner through the wear difference before we cut anything.

Base prep and drainage

The work under the paver is the work that lasts.

Every install follows ICPI-style methodology: excavate to compacted subgrade, lay a graded aggregate base (typically 4–6 inches on residential, more on driveways), screed a one-inch bedding sand layer, set and compact the pavers, then sweep in polymeric joint sand and seal at the homeowner's option. Drainage is engineered around the lot — we slope away from the house, daylight runoff at the property line, and pipe through walls when the grade fights us.

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Before & after

Most of our jobs start the same way: a mixed yard of cracked concrete, sun-faded flagstone, and decomposed-granite patches the previous owner laid in piecemeal. Pavers pull the whole property back into one design.

Before

Flagstone & concrete patchwork

Original yard ran flagstone across the patio with a poured-concrete walk feeding the side gate — two materials, two ages, two different settling patterns. Joints had opened, and weeds were winning.

After

Unified concrete paver field

Excavated to subgrade, laid 5 inches of compacted base, ran a single paver profile across patio and walkway with a soldier course on the perimeter. Polymeric sand finish, sealed two weeks later once the joints cured.

Before

Cracked drive, sinking apron

Original poured-concrete driveway had three transverse cracks and a settled apron at the street. Edge of the slab was crumbling where the rebar had rusted through.

After

Engineered paver driveway

Removed the slab, re-graded for daylight drainage at the curb, laid 6 inches of base compacted in two lifts. Concrete pavers in a herringbone pattern with a contrasting border. Apron tied flush to the city curb cut.

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How a paver project runs

Five phases, all of them ours. Edward walks every site personally before bid and again before final sign-off — no project manager standing in.

01

On-site consult

Free, on the property. Edward walks the yard, measures the area, asks how you use the space, and talks through material options against your budget.

02

Design & bid

Material selection, layout, pattern, border, drainage plan. Written, itemized bid — line by line, no hidden allowances. The bid you sign is the bid you pay.

03

Excavation & base

Dig to subgrade, haul out the spoils, lay graded aggregate, compact in lifts. This is the phase most contractors short — it's the phase that decides whether the pavers settle in year three.

04

Lay & compact

Screed the bedding sand, lay the pavers in the chosen pattern, cut the edges, compact the field with a plate compactor over a protective pad.

05

Joint sand & seal

Sweep in polymeric sand, set it with a fine mist, and on request seal the field two weeks later once the joints have fully cured. Walk-through and sign-off with Edward.

Why base prep matters here

Arizona soil punishes a short base.

Caliche layers, expansive clay pockets, monsoon runoff cutting under slabs — the East Valley breaks paver installs that would last forever in milder ground. We dig deeper than code minimum and compact in lifts because the alternative shows up at year three as a sunken corner or a rolling driveway.

Monsoon season is the real test. Yards that don't drain are yards that float pavers, blow out joint sand, and undercut bases. Every install we bid includes a drainage plan that daylights runoff at the property line, slopes away from the house, and routes water around the install — not through it.

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Paver questions, answered

How long do pavers last in Arizona?

The pavers themselves carry manufacturer lifetime warranties on color and structural integrity — Belgard, Pavestone, and the other major lines we install all run 25-year to lifetime warranties. The install holds as long as the base holds, which is why we over-build base prep. A properly installed paver field in the East Valley should outlast the home it was laid for.

Do I need to seal my pavers?

Sealing isn't required, but it slows fading on darker concrete pavers, locks polymeric joint sand against monsoon washout, and makes routine cleaning easier. We seal on request, typically two weeks after install once joints have cured. Re-seal every 3–5 years if you go that route.

What about weeds growing between the pavers?

Polymeric joint sand — installed wet-set on every job — hardens to a flexible mortar that blocks the seeds and water weeds need to take. We sweep it in, mist it, and let it cure before turning the yard back over to you. Years three and beyond, the occasional rogue seed can land on top, but a quick pull or a spray handles it.

What if a section sinks or settles?

Pavers are individually re-settable. If a corner or a single stone moves, we lift the affected pavers, re-screed the bedding sand, and re-lay — same look, no patch lines. We back our installs with a workmanship warranty against settling caused by base failure. Settlement caused by tree roots, utility cuts, or homeowner-installed irrigation under the field is excluded — we'll still fix it, just on a service-call basis.

Do I need a permit for a paver driveway?

San Tan Valley, Queen Creek, and most East Valley jurisdictions don't require a permit to replace an existing driveway in kind. Expanding the driveway footprint, cutting a new curb, or changing the apron usually does. We handle the permitting on jobs that need it — that work is in the bid, not added later.

How long does a paver install take?

A standard patio (300–500 sq ft) runs 3–5 working days. A driveway runs 5–10 working days depending on size and grade work. Weather and base conditions move both numbers. We give you a written start and finish date in the bid and call you the day before if anything moves.

Ready to bid your paver project?

Free on-site consult with Edward. Written, itemized bid. No high-pressure close, no allowance games, no surprise add-ons.

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Related services

Most paver projects pair with one of these. Bid them together and save the trip.

Spoke

Patio Design & Installation

Full patio builds — paver fields, edging, drainage, and the shade structure conversation that usually follows.

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Retaining Walls

Engineered walls for grade transitions, raised planters, and terraced patio spaces. Block selection matched to the paver field.

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Decorative Concrete

Stamped, stained, and broom-finish concrete for projects where a paver field isn't the right fit. Same crew, same standard.

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